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Forty millimetres, 8.5mm thin, solid rose gold and a saturated Milano Blue skeleton. Parmigiani limits its most restrained openworked Tonda PF to 30 pieces at CHF 97,000.
Ming partners with Royal Selangor, the world's foremost pewter house, for an 88-piece 37.06 with a hand-hammered pewter dial in a 38mm grade-2 titanium case. Assembled in Kuala Lumpur for the first time, it retails at CHF 5,000.
For its 30th anniversary, Parmigiani Fleurier recasts the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, Minute Rattrapante and Chronographe Mysterieux in full 950 platinum - case, knurled bezel and integrated bracelet - at 30 pieces each, priced from CHF 91,000 to CHF 99,600.
Moser's most complex watch returns as a 20-piece titanium edition: a dial-side minute repeater, a flying tourbillon on a cylindrical hairspring, full skeletonisation, and a hand-fired aventurine and mother-of-pearl dial. CHF 378,350, and a GPHG 2026 Mechanical Exception entry.
Orient Star refreshes its M45 flagship with the new in-house F7M65 automatic: an in-house mechanical moon phase with power reserve, a semi-skeleton dial and a 50-hour reserve, from around GBP 2,199.99, with limited editions of 120 and 190 pieces.
Roger Dubuis takes its Knights of the Round Table concept to 17th-century Japan: twelve micro-sculpted pink-gold Kabuto helmets encircle an abstract Edo Castle, powered by the Poinçon de Genève-certified RD821. A 45mm pink-gold Metiers d'Art limited edition of 28 pieces, RDDBEX1139, priced on request (est. CHF 300,000 range).
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele's revived Ferdinand Berthoud brings its GPHG-winning Chronomètre FB 3SPC back in a warm, monochromatic 18k rose-gold execution, with a hand-wound, COSC-certified in-house calibre whose cylindrical balance spring you can watch through a side porthole. Non-limited; price on request, around CHF 160,000.
Zenith adds two colour-charged Defy Extreme models running the dual-escapement El Primero 9004, a chronograph that mechanically measures and displays 1/100th of a second. The Lapis Lazuli II pairs forged carbon and titanium with real lapis counters (25 pieces); the microblasted-titanium Ultraviolet goes fully transparent and, at CHF 17,900, is one of high horology's strongest value plays.
Parmigiani extends its all-composite Ultra-Cermet Sport Chronograph with a summer-ready Mineral Blue dial—an integrated in-house column-wheel chronograph (calibre PF070) in a scratch-proof ceramic-titanium case. CHF 40,400.
Ming and Los Angeles guilloché master Josh Shapiro have launched the 37.06 Lightning, a 38mm steel watch whose Grade 2 titanium dial is rose-engine-turned with a brand-new lightning-bolt pattern, then heat-coloured by hand with a butane torch into a unique orange-to-blue gradient. Roughly one in three dials survives the process. CHF 6,250, first orders open 5 June 2026 at 13:00 GMT, then around ten pieces per month.
Presented during the Formula 1 Louis Vuitton Grand Prix de Monaco 2026, the Monaco Speed 12 replaces the classic chronograph layout with a jumping-hour display of twelve rotating titanium pistons. The automatic calibre TH84-00 was developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton — the first time the patented Spin Time architecture appears outside Louis Vuitton. Limited to 50 numbered pieces in Grade 5 titanium, from December 2026.
Bell & Ross returns to its rarest muse for a fourth time, partnering with S.T. Dupont on a 42 mm steel-and-18K-rose-gold BR-05 Chrono. Limited to 150 sets at EUR 19,200, each comes in a Macassar ebony humidor box with a matching Ligne 2 lighter and cigar cutter.
Albishorn's latest "imaginary vintage" piece, the Type X-Graph, invents a 1948 transparent-dial prototype that supposedly predates the famous Type 20 pilot chronographs. Behind a smoky translucent polycarbonate dial sits a COSC-certified, hand-wound monopusher chronograph with a thumb-operated left-side pusher and a 65-hour reserve, in a 39 mm steel case from CHF 4,250 — limited to 99 pieces over three years.
Barrelhand's production Monolith lands on 28 May 2026 — a 38 × 11.8 mm openworked Scalmalloy chassis weighing just 31 g, an Aerolight X2 ceramic lume dial 4× brighter than Super-LumiNova X1, C-plane sapphire crystal, and a 19 mm NanoFiche disc in the caseback holding 3 GB of human cultural data rated to outlast 1,000 years. Modified Sellita SW300-1b inside, 50-hour reserve, vacuum-to-20-atm pressure resistance, EVA/IVA-tested. USD 9,750.
Armin Strom has unveiled the Dual Time GMT Resonance Aventurine — a 10-piece limited edition that fits Venetian aventurine to the brand's flagship dual-balance resonance dual-time GMT. The 39 mm stainless steel case houses the in-house Calibre ARF22 with its patented Resonance Clutch, mechanically synchronising two independent regulating organs. CHF 105,000.
Bell & Ross brings its annual Patrouille de France collaboration to the skeletonised BR-X3 platform for the first time. Limited to 250 pieces with the COSC-certified manufacture calibre BR-CAL.323, sky-blue anodised columns and an Alpha-Jet seconds-hand counterweight. EUR 7,900.
Parmigiani drops the no-date 40 mm Tonda PF Chronograph into 18k rose gold for the first time, paired with a hand-guilloché Mineral Blue dial and the COSC-certified PF070 integrated chronograph. CHF 70,000 / EUR 79,000.
Ming Thein replaces traditional hands with two linearly-polarised sapphire discs — when they align, the iridescent multiphasic dial reveals itself; when they cross at 90°, it blacks out completely. Schwarz-Etienne ASE 200.M1 micro-rotor inside a 40 mm grade-5 titanium case. CHF 22,000, limited to 50 pieces.
Panerai's most technical Submersible to date: a 47 mm DMLS-titanium 500-metre diver with a fully skeletonised manufacture P.4001/S calibre, a patented polarised date that disappears across the movement, and a true traveller's GMT. Available in Panerai boutiques from May 2026 at EUR 49,000.
Daniel Roth's slim ellipsocurvex Extra-Plat enters platinum for the first time under La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, paired with a grey dial decorated with hand-engraved pinstripe guilloché — the most monochromatic and arguably the most 'Daniel Roth' execution of the revival yet.
California's Havid Nagan releases its third reference, the HN02, in a slim 38 × 9 mm Grade 5 titanium case with hand-guilloché grand-feu enamel dials and a COSC-certified manufacture calibre AMT6600. Limited to 42 pieces total at USD 18,000.
Stéphane von Gunten's Haute-Rive introduces the Honoris Strato Verde and Strato Blu — the first stainless-steel cases ever offered for the 1,000-hour power reserve, flying-tourbillon Honoris. With a 42.5 mm × 11.95 mm steel case, in-house Calibre HR01, single barrel containing a three-metre mainspring, and a production cap of about 10 watches per year across the entire Honoris collection, these CHF 128,000 references make Haute-Rive's record-breaking architecture meaningfully more wearable.
The successor to the RM 055 "Bubba Watson" lands as the cleanest, lightest manual-wind RM in years. The new in-house Calibre RMUL4 weighs under five grams, runs at 4 Hz with a 55-hour reserve, and ships in White Quartz TPT, Grey Quartz TPT, and Carbon TPT cases.
Russian independent Anton Suhanov debuts the Flamingo — a 38-piece wristwatch with the in-house Calibre Su26.1L, a Y-shaped St Petersburg bridge, and a world-first Super-LumiNova-treated balance wheel that flickers like flame as it oscillates.
Quietly slipped between the Nautilus 50th and the Cubitus Skeleton at Watches & Wonders 2026, the new Calatrava reference 5227G-015 pairs white gold with a rose-gilt opaline salmon dial and dark charcoal obus markers — a combination never before seen on the 5227 platform. Officer's back, Calibre 26-330 S C, and a USD 47,262 price tag.
For the 10th Opus of Cartier Privé, the Maison has released not one watch but three — the Tank Normale, the Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph, and the Crash Skeleton, each in 950 platinum with burgundy accents. A separate parallel yellow-gold 'La Collection' includes the Tank Normale, Cloche de Cartier, and Tank Cintrée.
Hermès debuts the first skeleton version of its H08 sports watch at Watches & Wonders 2026 — a 39mm titanium and black-ceramic statement powered by an entirely new in-house automatic calibre developed over three years with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier.
Panerai delivers a world-first at Watches & Wonders 2026: the Luminor 31 Giorni PAM01631, a hand-wound watch with a full 31-day (744-hour) power reserve. Seven years of development produced the new Calibre P.2031/S, a quad-barrel movement using over 3 metres of mainspring, displayed under a skeletonised dial inside a 44mm Goldtech case. Limited to 200 pieces.
TAG Heuer has just rewritten the chronograph's rulebook. At Watches & Wonders 2026, the new Monaco Evergraph debuts Calibre TH80-00 — a 5 Hz COSC-certified automatic movement that replaces classic levers and springs with compliant flexible mechanisms. Five years of in-house R&D; the most consequential chronograph architecture since the 1970s.
Zenith skeletonises the Chronomaster Sport for the first time at W&W 2026. Four references — two steel, one rose gold, one diamond-set rose gold — all powered by the in-house El Primero 3600SK, still at 5 Hz with 1/10-second measurement on the bezel. Steel from EUR 16,500.
Patek Philippe elevates the Cubitus to grand complication status with the 5840P — a perpetual calendar skeleton in platinum that pairs the collection's daring square geometry with the all-new Calibre 28-28 Q SQU. At CHF 150,000 and 10mm thin, it is both technically ambitious and visually unlike anything else in the Patek catalogue.
Audemars Piguet's headline release at Watches & Wonders 2026 is the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked (Ref. 26685XT) — a fully skeletonised perpetual calendar powered by the brand-new Calibre 7139, presented in a stunning titanium and Bulk Metallic Glass case at just 9.5mm thick.
Czapek & Cie's W&W 2026 collection is a masterclass in value: three Antarctique references in titanium with proprietary Cosmic Blue — Dark Sector (CHF 32,000), Révélation (CHF 42,000), and a 25-piece flying Tourbillon (CHF 67,000). Every single movement is in-house. The Tourbillon price-to-complication ratio is unmatched in all of watchmaking.
Alongside the Royal Oak 26685XT, Audemars Piguet unveils a second Calibre 7139-powered watch at W&W 2026: the Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar Openworked (Ref. 26443NB). Same groundbreaking movement, completely different aesthetic personality — a round, open-architecture case that lets the skeleton perpetual calendar breathe.
Watches & Wonders 2026 opens tomorrow in Geneva with 66 brands. Here is everything confirmed, teased, and highly anticipated — from the Rolex GMT-Master II Coke revival to the Nautilus 50th anniversary and Grand Seiko's first UFA diver.
440 hours to build, max 8 per year — Girard-Perregaux's first in-house minute repeater is a $590,000 masterpiece.
Hot pink on a skeleton flyback chrono — Moser's Alpine Drivers Edition is 100 pieces of unapologetic boldness.
H. Moser celebrates F1's unsung heroes — the mechanics — with a skeletonized flyback chronograph for Alpine's pit crew.