Description
Ever since Daniel Roth was relaunched under the umbrella of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the strategy has been deliberate and slow. The Tourbillon came back first. Then the Extra-Plat in yellow gold for souscription members, then in rose gold, then in rose gold skeletonised. The 2026 platinum execution, with its grey hand-engraved pinstripe guilloché dial, is the natural next chapter — and arguably the most coherent with the brand's original vocabulary from the 1990s.
The Extra-Plat is, conceptually, Daniel Roth's slim, manual-wind double-ellipsocurvex dress watch — a form he developed after leaving Breguet in 1989 to launch his own house. The platinum version preserves all of that and adds the metal that the modern collection had so far avoided: a softly sculptural case in 950 platinum, paired with a dial that drops the warmer "champagne" or "salmon" hues of the rose-gold pieces in favour of a cooler, monochromatic grey ground.
What you end up with is the most restrained Extra-Plat of the revival to date. There is no skeletonisation, no exotic metal, no oversized case — just a thin platinum dress watch with a small seconds, a hand-engraved guilloché dial, and a manual-wind movement under an exhibition caseback. It is the kind of watch that signals an end-game collector, more than a first Daniel Roth.
Design
The signature of any Daniel Roth piece is the ellipsocurvex case: an ellipse over a curved profile, never quite tonneau and never quite cushion. The platinum Extra-Plat keeps the proportions of the contemporary collection — a slim dress-watch silhouette, distinctly elongated lugs, polished bezel, sapphire crystals front and back — and lets the metal do the heavy lifting. Platinum 950 is denser and more reflective than gold; it gives the case a slightly cooler, almost chrome-like sheen that flatters the geometry without overpowering it.
The dial is the centrepiece. It is finished in a grey / anthracite tone with hand-engraved pinstripe guilloché — closely spaced parallel lines that reflect light in a directional, almost moiré-like way. This is the same family of ornament Daniel Roth used on his original 1990s pieces and revived on the recent platinum Tourbillon, executed with traditional rose-engine work rather than CNC engraving. Applied indices in white gold catch the light against the matte ground; the small seconds counter at 6 o'clock is recessed and snailed; thin baton hands in white gold complete the very controlled palette.
The strap is alligator with a deployant clasp in matching platinum, and the back is sapphire — a long-running characteristic of the Extra-Plat that lets the manual-wind calibre and its hand-bevelled bridges show. There is no date complication, no second time zone, nothing that would interrupt the reading. The point is the form.
Specifications
- Reference: 2026 Daniel Roth Extra-Plat Platinum (full reference and pricing TBC at retail)
- Case material: Platinum 950
- Case shape: Daniel Roth signature double-ellipsocurvex (ellipse over curved profile), slim "Extra-Plat" architecture
- Crystal: Sapphire (front and exhibition caseback)
- Dial: Grey / anthracite with hand-engraved pinstripe guilloché; applied white-gold indices; recessed snailed small seconds at 6 o'clock
- Hands: Thin white-gold baton hands
- Movement: Daniel Roth in-house manual-wind calibre (Extra-Plat platform); hand-finished bridges with bevelled edges, perlage on the mainplate, visible through the sapphire back
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o'clock
- Strap: Alligator leather with platinum deployant clasp
- Distribution: Daniel Roth boutique distribution, La Fabrique du Temps
What's Exciting
The platinum Extra-Plat is exciting precisely because it does not try to be exciting in the way most modern luxury launches do. There is no oversized case, no bizarre metal alloy, no animated complication — and that is the point. La Fabrique du Temps, since the relaunch, has been gradually re-centring the Daniel Roth catalogue on the idea that this is a 1990s independent's brand, and the platinum version is the most coherent expression of that thesis to date.
What also matters is the dial work. Hand-engraved pinstripe guilloché, executed on a rose engine, is not a finishing technique you see on a watch at any price under serious tens of thousands. Pairing it with platinum and a perfectly restrained two-handed-plus-small-seconds layout means every minute of finishing on the dial has somewhere to land visually. This is, in other words, a connoisseur watch — and the platinum version is the closest the modern Daniel Roth catalogue has come to the original Daniel Roth in spirit.
For collectors who already own one of the rose-gold or yellow-gold Extra-Plats, the platinum is not a duplicate; it is a different watch in mood. For collectors looking to enter the brand for the first time, the question is whether they prefer the warmer or the cooler register of Roth's vocabulary. Both arguments are defensible.
History
Daniel Roth founded his eponymous brand in 1989, after spending years at Breguet where he was instrumental in restoring the company's tourbillon-making expertise. The Roth aesthetic was distinctive from day one: the double-ellipse-over-curved-profile case was a deliberate counterpoint to both the Genta integrated bracelet of the 1970s and the round dress watches of the era. The Extra-Plat (and its tourbillon counterpart) defined the brand's vocabulary — slim, manual-wind, monochromatic, hand-finished.
The Daniel Roth name passed through Bulgari and was effectively dormant for years before LVMH's La Fabrique du Temps relaunched it in 2023, alongside a parallel revival of Gerald Genta. The first piece was a Tourbillon in yellow gold; then a souscription Extra-Plat in yellow gold; then a rose-gold Extra-Plat; then the rose-gold skeletonised version. Earlier in 2026, the Tourbillon entered platinum with an anthracite hand-guilloché dial. The Extra-Plat platinum, launched in May 2026 with the matching dial treatment, completes the bridge between the two foundational models in the modern catalogue.
Pricing and exact production volume have not yet been disclosed at the time of launch. Historically, the modern Extra-Plat in rose gold has sat in the CHF 56,000–60,000 range; platinum reliably commands a meaningful premium across all manufacturers, so expect a step up.
