Description
Doxa has reloaded its entry dive watch for 2026. The SUB 200 II takes the retro cushion-case diver that put Doxa back on enthusiasts' radars and pushes it forward in three meaningful ways: a slimmer case, the first ever fume dials in Doxa's permanent collection, and five new summer colourways launching together. This is the drop that turns the SUB 200 from a quirky heritage pick into a genuine daily dive-watch contender.
The five variants are Sea Emerald (green fume), Caribbean (blue fume), Sharkhunter (black fume), Sharkhunter Vintage (charcoal grey fume with sunburst brushing), and Red Coral — the latter being the only one housed in a black DLC case with a white Super-LumiNova treatment. Every dial darkens progressively towards the periphery and carries a subtle moire effect that dances under the light. For a brand built on Cousteau's orange Professional dial, this is a surprisingly refined pivot.
Design
The case is still pure Doxa — tonneau-shaped, compact on the wrist, and dominated by the unidirectional bezel with its no-deco scale that's been part of the SUB's DNA since 1967. What's changed is the proportions. Doxa has shaved a full millimetre off the thickness, down to 12.8 mm from the first generation's 13.8 mm, while keeping the 44 mm diameter and the short 48 mm lug-to-lug that lets the SUB wear smaller than the numbers suggest. The domed box sapphire crystal with internal AR coating gives it that vintage-diver dome look without the scratches.
Four of the five variants (Sea Emerald, Caribbean, Sharkhunter, Sharkhunter Vintage) sit in brushed 316L stainless steel with a brushed aluminium bezel insert and beige Super-LumiNova that reads as faux-patina from day one. The Red Coral goes the other direction entirely — a black DLC-coated case, a DLC-coated steel bezel insert with a white minute scale, and bright white Super-LumiNova throughout. It's the stealthiest Doxa in years. The Sharkhunter Vintage earns a footnote too: it's the only reference in the launch to offer two bezel choices — a standard black insert or a dial-matched brushed smoky grey one.
Every model ships on a choice of two straps: the stainless steel Milanese mesh bracelet with Doxa's security clasp, or a Tropic-style FKM rubber strap colour-matched to the dial (black, blue, green, or red).
Specs
Common SUB 200 II specs
| Brand | Doxa |
| Collection | SUB 200 II |
| Case Diameter | 44 mm |
| Case Thickness | 12.8 mm |
| Lug-to-Lug | 48 mm |
| Case Material | 316L stainless steel or steel with black DLC (Red Coral) |
| Crystal | Box-shaped sapphire with internal anti-reflective coating |
| Bezel | Unidirectional rotating, aluminium insert (or DLC-coated steel insert on Red Coral) |
| Dial | Fume gradient with moire effect — first fume dials in Doxa's permanent collection |
| Movement | Sellita SW200-1, automatic, 26 jewels |
| Frequency | 28,800 vph (4 Hz) |
| Power Reserve | 38 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Water Resistance | 200 m (20 ATM) |
| Crown | Screw-down |
| Caseback | Solid steel, screw-in, engraved with sailing yacht motif |
| Straps | Stainless steel Milanese mesh bracelet or Tropic-style FKM rubber (colour matched) |
| Price (steel) | US$1,690 on rubber / US$1,750 on bracelet (EUR 1,590 / 1,650) |
| Price (DLC — Red Coral) | Approx. EUR 1,690 on rubber / EUR 1,790 on Milanese |
| Availability | Pre-order open, shipping May 2026 |
The 5 colourways
| Variant | Dial | Case | Bezel insert | Lume | Strap colour |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sea Emerald | Green fume | Brushed steel | Brushed aluminium | Beige Super-LumiNova | Green rubber or mesh |
| Caribbean | Blue fume | Brushed steel | Brushed aluminium | Beige Super-LumiNova | Blue rubber or mesh |
| Sharkhunter | Black fume | Brushed steel | Brushed aluminium | Beige Super-LumiNova | Black rubber or mesh |
| Sharkhunter Vintage | Charcoal grey fume, sunburst brushing | Brushed steel | Black OR dial-matched smoky grey (only variant with a choice) | Beige Super-LumiNova | Black rubber or mesh |
| Red Coral | Red coral fume | Black DLC steel | DLC-coated steel, white minute scale | White Super-LumiNova | Red rubber or Milanese mesh |
What's Exciting
Three things make this launch land. First, the slimmer case: 12.8 mm is a real unlock for a 44 mm cushion-case diver. The original SUB 200 was fine but slab-ish on smaller wrists — the new proportions push it into genuine daily-wearer territory. Second, fume dials. Doxa has never put a gradient dial in its permanent collection before, and the moire finish catches light in a way that elevates the whole piece beyond its sub-US$1,800 ask. Third, the Red Coral DLC — a murdered-out Doxa with a blood-red dial and white lume is the kind of hero piece that's going to sell out first. Sharkhunter Vintage fans also win by being the only ones with a bezel choice, letting you tone it down or double up on grey. At US$1,690 to US$1,790 on the Tropic strap, this is Doxa's most complete entry-tier diver yet.
Sources
- Monochrome Watches — First Look: Doxa SUB 200 II Collection
- Worn & Wound — Doxa Introduces the SUB 200 II Diver
- Fratello Watches — Introducing the Doxa SUB 200 II Collection
- Doxa Official — SUB 200 II Sea Emerald
- Doxa Official — SUB 200 II Sharkhunter Vintage
History
Doxa's dive-watch lineage is one of the most consequential in the industry. Founded in Le Locle in 1889, Doxa spent decades as a quiet Swiss movement and watch maker until 1967, when it launched the original SUB 300 — co-developed with the US Divers Company (Aqua Lung) and famously adopted by Jacques-Yves Cousteau. The SUB introduced the orange Professional dial (still the most legible dive-watch dial ever made, according to a lot of people who should know), the unidirectional no-deco bezel calibrated for US Navy dive tables, and the tonneau-shaped cushion case that's been largely unchanged since. The SUB 200 arrived in 2019 as the modern entry point to that heritage, trading the big brother SUB 300's helium-escape valve for a more wearable footprint and a lower price. The SUB 200 II, released March 2026, is the first full reload of that entry model — slimmer, with fume dials, and with the five-colour summer drop positioning it as the accessible face of Doxa for the year. Red Coral in particular is the first time a DLC-coated red-dial SUB has been part of the permanent lineup.
Gallery
Images to be added — Sea Emerald wrist shot, Caribbean dial macro, Sharkhunter Vintage with both bezel options, Red Coral DLC lume shot, caseback with yacht engraving.
