Description
The revived Daniel Roth has been rebuilding the Extra Plat one variant at a time since 2025, and the fifth version is the one that looks most like it could have been made in the brand's first era. The Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt, reference DBBD04A1, puts a black dial with gilt Roman numerals into the familiar double-ellipse case in rose gold — only 7.7 mm thick — and runs the in-house hand-wound calibre DR002.
The twist is how the gilt is made. Rather than printing gold onto a black dial, the dial itself is solid gold, finished with a black coating that is then taken back so the gold base shows through as the markings. It is not a numbered limited edition, but production is constrained by manufacturing capacity, and Daniel Roth lists it at CHF 55,500 excluding taxes (launch coverage quoted CHF 55,000).
Design
The case is the signature Daniel Roth double ellipse, 38.6 mm long by 35.5 mm wide, in 5N rose gold, with a flat anti-reflective sapphire crystal and a sapphire display back. The dial carries pinstripe guilloché beneath its black finish, Roman numerals and a gold minute track that all emerge from the gold beneath, and the thin gold hands complete a very restrained hours-and-minutes layout.
Black and rose gold is an old dress-watch combination, but the gilt technique gives it a warmth and depth that printed markings do not have — the gold reads as part of the dial rather than on top of it. The watch is delivered on a black calfskin strap with an 18k gold pin buckle, and the DR002 is on show through the back.
Specifications
- Reference: DBBD04A1
- Case: 38.6 mm x 35.5 mm, double-ellipse shape; 7.7 mm thick
- Case material: 18k 5N rose gold
- Crystal: flat sapphire with anti-reflective coating; sapphire caseback
- Water resistance: 30 m
- Dial: solid gold base with black finish, pinstripe guilloché, gilt Roman numerals and minute track revealed from the gold base
- Functions: hours and minutes
- Movement: calibre DR002, in-house, hand-wound, made by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton
- Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
- Power reserve: 65 hours
- Strap: black calfskin with 18k gold pin buckle
- Edition: not a numbered limited edition; production limited by manufacturing capacity
- Price: CHF 55,500 excluding taxes per Daniel Roth's own listing (CHF 55,000 quoted by SJX, Monochrome and Time+Tide at launch)
- Availability: September 2026, through Daniel Roth retailers
What's Exciting
Gilt dials are usually a vintage-styling shortcut: gold print on black. Here the logic is reversed — the gold is the substrate and the black is what is removed — which is harder to do and far more convincing in the metal. It is the kind of detail that only makes sense on a watch built as an exercise in finishing, and that is precisely what the modern Extra Plat is.
The DR002 matters just as much. A 4 Hz hand-wound calibre with 65 hours of reserve inside a 7.7 mm case is a genuinely modern movement in a genuinely thin watch, made in-house by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton rather than sourced. Around CHF 55,000 is serious money for a time-only dress watch, but of the five Extra Plats so far, this is the one we would choose: the most classical, and the one where the dial finally matches the ambition of the movement.
History
Daniel Roth was revived under LVMH in 2023, with its watches now developed and made by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. The modern Extra Plat debuted in January 2025 with the yellow-gold Souscription edition, followed in May 2025 by the rose gold model, then in 2026 by a Skeleton Rose Gold and a platinum version with a grey dial.
The Rose Gold Gilt is the fifth iteration, and its black dial takes its cue from the original Daniel Roth Extra Plat reference 2167 — making it the most direct link yet between the revived brand and the watches that made the Daniel Roth name.
